Monday, February 28, 2011

Baked Beans

I never cottoned to baked beans when I was growing up. Baked beans then were canned. The sauce was too sweet, the beans too mealy for my taste.

Homemade baked beans make a different story. I can give you my current recipe, straight from a recipe collection by Yankee Magazine.

It truth, I present it not exactly straight from the cookbook. It’s the sort of dish that can be adjusted as needed. You will notice I adjusted a lot, and I really basically followed the recipe. I wasn’t going rogue.

  1. Soak a pound of yellow eye beans overnight.  I have yet to use yellow eyes in the recipe, tho I know they are a good choice. Yellow eyes don’t become mushy when cooked. Navy beans, which I used the first time with this recipe, do become mushy, but that didn’t spoil  the beans. This time, I used kidney. I used what I had on hand. As it turns out, I forgot to soak the beans. No matter.
  2. Boil for 20 minutes. I went longer than that, till the beans were tender. I had 2 pounds of beans because leftovers are not bad.
  3. Add 1/2 tsp baking soda. Not sure the point of this. I realize the baking soda will de-acidify the beans. A nice flush of foam occurs when the baking soda goes in. Acidity doesn’t seem a problem with beans, however. I’ll see if I can research this.
  4. Combine beans, dry mustard, maple syrup, salt, and chopped up bacon. For 1 pound, the proportions are 3 tbsp mustard, 1/4 c maple syrup, 1 tsp salt, 3 slices bacon. For the roughly 2 pounds of beans I used, I added more of all ingredients but the bacon. I also added molasses to darken the flavour. I lacked ground ginger but would have used it were some available.
  5. Set oven to350. I turned electric crockpot to high. Crockpot is more energy efficient and simpler.
  6. Line pot with 3 slices of bacon, spoon bean mixture into pot. I did this exactly.
  7. Pin bay leaf to peeled onion and nestle in beans. I did this exactly as well.It was a large onion. Not sure how much effect the clove has. The bay leaf is an interesting addition.
  8. Lay 3 slices of bacon on top. I did this, as well.
  9. Bake for 4-5 hours. I let the beans slow cook for about 11 hours.

Result: delicious!

I served store-bought naan with the beans, good for swabbing up the sauce. Cole slaw is a good accompaniment. Speaking of which, I would recommend a dark beer, like a sweet stout, to serve with the beans, leastwise if the beans represent the main course, and it did for us last night. Some big, fruity red, like a zin or Cotes du Rhone would probably be appropriate.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

The Bad Bottle

Nobody’s perfect. Even with sanitary modern techniques, bad bottles occur. What should one do?

First, one should understand that a bad bottle has a technical flaw, not an aesthetic one. A bad bottle betrays flavors and aromas unintended by the winemaker. The following represent the main reasons for bad bottles:

  • Tainted corks
  • Poor storage of bottles
  • Excessive sulfur in wine

The blame, or responsibility, for these vary, but if you the consumer receive a bottle with any of the above attributes, you should expect the restaurant or store to offer a replacement. I will go into greater depth with each bullet point because misconceptions exist.

Tainted Corks

Simply enough, the cork harvested from the Cork Oak (quercus suber)becomes tainted by bacteria. This taint transfers to the wine, leaving a distinctive dank, musty, and unpleasant aroma. I have seen estimates that from 1% to 7% of corks are tainted (to varying degrees). Don’t blame the winemaker for the corked wine.

Poor Storage of Bottles

Long term storage of wine requires that bottles be positioned so that the cork remains in contact with the wine. Storing wines thus keeps the cork pliable, and that keeps the seal firm. If a bottle remains upright too long, the cork will shrink, and too much air will interact with the wine. We know this interaction as the process of oxidation.

Oxidized wines, both white and red, turn brown, lose fruit and acidity, and otherwise lose all charm. All wines head that way. The very slow transfer of oxygen through the cork allows a wine to develop nuances and subtleties, but the rapid transfer that happens because of a defective closure ruins a wine.

Extreme heat, extreme cold, and extreme temperature variation also play havoc with wines. Excessively leaky corks give a clue that wines were stored poorly. In taste, you will find the wines flat, fruitless, and always disappointing.

Excessive Sulfur in Wine

Winemakers use sulfur throughout the winemaking process, to stop oxidation and to kill yeasts and bacteria. If poorly regulated, such aromas as matchsticks, rotten eggs, and onions will reign, and not in a nice way. In some cases, sulfur smells blow away, and all can be forgiven. If the sulfur presence lingers, it’s a problem. The winemaker goofed.

Any wine sold in the US with sulfites above a certain level must carry a warning label. This warning serves those people with sensitivity to sulfites. The sensitivity manifests in asthmatic reactions. From what I have read, sulfites do NOT cause headaches. Essentially all wines contain sulfites: yeast produce sulfites. The sulfite warning does not suggest that a sulfur taint exists in the wine.

The Fault Could Be Yours

Bad bottles happen, but technological improvements have made them rarer. People sometimes call a wine faulty that is simply too young or just not to the person’s taste. For instance, people will say a wine has turned, become vinegar. While that could happen, with today’s technology, don’t expect it. Leaving a bottle open for days will present a better chance for a wine to turn. In most cases, people who make that claim just do not like the high acidity that a young wine meant to age might have.

I know of a restaurant owner who gave diners an entire meal because the wine he served had, everyone involved believed, ground glass in it. Ignorance cost him. That ground glass was in fact a precipitation of tartaric acid, natural in most wines. Tartrate crystals form in some wines when the wine is chilled. Bulk wine producers often flash chill their wines to precipitate these crystals. Processed, these crystals become cream of tartar, which I think helps stiffen meringues, if nothing else.

Remedy for Bad Bottles

If you believe that you have a bad bottle, the merchant or restaurateur should be willing to replace the bottle. If not, take  your business elsewhere.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Introduction

Clever name for the blog, right? No wait, there’s more!!!

My background includes many years in the wine business. That means I have unloaded 40’ containers of wine, stocked bins, advised customers, written newsletters, led wine tastings, created shelf talkers and signage, tasted many, many wines, and otherwise enjoyed the draught of responsibilities inherent in the business. Also, I paid attention.

I have also been an editor for a small press, published three books (poetry), and created marketing communications for retailers. I do not use the term expert, but I can safely aver to having some knowledge and much curiosity concerning what I wrote about. That’s fair, isn’t it?

I will review wines and possibly restaurants, supply such info as I have gathered in my studies, ruminate on people and places, and with luck largely avoid passive voice.

I mean to keep it fresh.

I worked for a store that depended on its monthly newsletter for its connection with customers. When I took over the writing of this newsletter, I carried on and even improved the tradition of offering clear information, thoughtful writing, and an entertaining style. So it shall continue.

P.S. No one pays me to do this. If something comes over the transom and interests me, I will write about it.